Ohio Star Revisited

The visitor's center on the south end of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park has this beautiful quilt hanging behind the desk. I had to stop a second time just to get pictures to post for you! All the blocks are Ohio Stars, but the fabric selection makes them look very different!

 

I like old quilts because the quilters had different dilemas than I do and tackled them very creatively.  Quilts are so fun to see because each quilter interprets the same ideas in unique ways, no two hand-made quilts will ever be exactly identical.

4 Point Star

I confess, I love stars! I never seem to get tired of making them. I collect ideas for new star blocks. I have made several star sampler quilts. This block is one I have made a few times. I like it because it's so easy.

You will need background fabric and three prints. Basically, we are making 8 half-square triangle blocks and one quarter-square triangle block.

Cut out:
Print A (green corner triangles): two 5" squares
Background fabric: four 5" squares and draw a diagonal line on the wrong side
Print B (pink star points): one 5" square and one 4" square
Print C (blue floral star points): one 5" square and one 4" square

Using the 5" squares, iron right sides together: one background square to Print B and Print C, two background squares to Print A.

Sew a 1/4" seam on each side of the drawn line on the background squares. Cut on the drawn line and press seam toward the darker fabric (away from the background). Trim the half-square triangle blocks so they measure 4 1/2" square.

The center part: I confess, I tried a new method and it made two blocks instead of one, so I'm giving you different directions. Take the two 4"squares, one in Print B and one in Print C, and cut both of those on the diagonal so you have two half-square triangles in each print. Lay them out to match the picture, alternating B and C.









Next, sew the alternating triangles with right sides together and be sure to always press to the darker print. You will now have two larger triangles that are half B and half C. Sew these two larger triangles together on the long, diagonal edge, perpendicular to the seams you just sewed when joining the alternating B and C half-square triangles. Press the seam to one side.

Square this center block down to 4 1/2", making sure you trim equal amounts from all sides so the points in the middle stay centered. When I square like that, I make sure my center is at 2 1/4" at all times, then it is centered.

Lay out the pieced blocks like the picture and sew them into rows.














Press the seams of the top and bottom row towards the center of the block. Sew the seams in the center row towards the outer edge of the block. This will allow the final seams to lay much smoother. Match the seams of the top row with the seams of the center row; stitch in place. Repeat for the center and bottom row. Now you can press your completely finished block!

CHURN DASH

CHURN DASH QUILT BLOCK

This is a standard quilt block that you will find in any quilting book worth its salt. And I especially like the fact that it is always called the same thing: Churn Dash.

You will need just two colors—a light (color A) and a dark or medium (color B). Always use scant ¼” seam allowances when sewing these quilt blocks.

Fabric requirements:
Color A: (1) 4 ½” square for the center
(2) 5” square
(4) 4 ½” x 2 ½” rectangles

Color B: (2) 5” square
(4) 4 ½” x 2 ½” rectangles

1. On the color A 5” squares, draw a line from corner to corner, diagonally. With the 5” squares of colors A and B right sides together, and color A facing you, sew a scant ¼” on either side of the diagonal line. Cut on the line. Press the square open with the seam towards the dark (color B). Square all four of these to 4 ½”. Set aside.





2. Using the rectangles, sew a color A to a color B, four times. Press squares open with seam towards the dark (color B).

3. Sew one pieced half-square triangles to each side of one pieced rectangle square. Press seams towards the rectangles. These are your outer borders.

4. Sew the other two pieced half square triangles to either side of the 4 ½” square. Press the seams towards the rectangles. This is your center row.

5. With a top row and the center row, carefully line up the seams to match. Pin them in place to secure them, and sew the seam using that scant ¼” seam allowance. (Now you see why the direction of pressing is important—because the seams will line up and press nicely without bigs lumps.) Repeat with the bottom row. Press the seams towards the outer rows. Your block is complete! Easy, huh!?

9 to 5

I apologize up front for the length and detail of these instructions. I would advise that you cut and paste them into a word document so you can refer to them more easily while sewing. If you read them thoroughly a few times before starting, the block will make more sense—unless you’re a master quilter like Rachel, and then you can just look at the picture and the measurements, and proceed with a perfect block. But we’ll save the discussion over my feelings of inadequacy for another day :) Like I said before, the block is called 9 to 5 because it was a lot of work for me. It sure looked pretty when I designed it! Live and learn.

On this block use a scant ¼” seam.
Fabric requirements:
Dark print 1 (brown paisley): four 2 1/2 x 4 1/2” rectangles; one 1 7/8” square
Dark print 2 (brown floral): one 1 7/8 x 7 3/8” strips; one 1 7/8 x 3 3/4” strip
Dark print 3 (pink floral): one 1 7/8 x 7 3/8” strip
Dark print 4 (red leaf print): two 1 7/8 x 7 3/8” strip
Medium print (tan leaf print): four 2 1/2 x 4 1/2” rectangles; one 1 7/8 x 7 ½” strip
Background (off white) sixteen 1 7/8 x 7 3/8” strips; two 1 7/8” squares; one 1 7/8 x 3 ¾ ” strips; 16 2 1/2” squares (for the background squares, the fabric usage might be easier if you cut four 10 x 2 1/2” strips, and then cut each strip into four 2 1/2” squares)


1. With a pencil, using the 16 2 1/2” squares of background fabric, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the back of each one. If you are using a directional print for the background, you will need to draw your diagonal lines so that 8 of them go one way across the pattern, and 8 of them go the other way.



2. Using the four rectangles from dark print 1 and the 2 1/2” background squares, lay a square over the right edge of the rectangle, with the diagonal line going from the center of the rectangle to the outer corner. Stitch just barely to the outside of the line—toward the outer corner, maybe on the outer edge of the drawn line. Do not stitch down the center of the line. Cut the OUTER corner off. You can save the little leftover triangle for a later project if you wish. (Trust me, this is the easiest way even if it does seem a little wasteful. Been there, done that, wish I hadn’t) Press the seam towards the background fabric. Lay another 2 1/2” background square against the other corner of the same rectangle, making sure that the diagonal line goes from the center of the rectangle to the outer lower corner. The square will lie across the seam of the first square—it’s supposed to. Before sewing, press the fabric upward with your finger to make sure any directional pattern is going the way you want it to. Put the fabric back down and stitch just barely on the outer edge of the diagonal line—toward the outer corner as before. Trim off the outer corner, and press the seam towards the background fabric. You should now have a rectangle in what’s called the flying geese pattern, as shown. Repeat the process with all of the rectangles, both of dark fabric 1, and medium fabric.




3. Sew together one medium print flying geese rectangle with a dark flying geese rectangle, making sure that the dark print is the outermost point. If you are careful to sew exactly across the seam where the two background squares met on each rectangle, you will achieve a perfect point when the flying geese rectangles are sewn together. Press seam towards the dark. You should have four 4 1/2” squares.





4. Using the 1 7/8 x 7 3/8” strips, and with the background fabric in the middle, sew together a dark fabric 2 strip, a background strip, and a dark fabric 4 strip, always pressing seams towards the darker fabric. Repeat using dark fabric 3, background, and dark fabric 4. Repeat again using one background strip, one medium print strip, and another background strip. You should have 3 sets of long striped fabric. Cut those pieces into four 1 7/8” x 4 3/8” rectangles. (My picture only shows three rectangles because I cut mine wrong and had to go back and add in more 1 7/8” squares. My pictures also do not show the cut background/medium strips.)




5. Lay out the checkered pieces carefully, and sew them into 4 little nine-patch squares, making sure that the dark print 1 is in the outermost corner, and dark print 4 shows up in two opposite corners. You may want to square up these little nine-patches to 4 1/2. Use you cutting mat to line up the outer corners, then make sure the four edges are perfectly straight—or as close to straight as possible. (No comments on the skewed edges, please.) For the top and bottom row, sew one small nine-patch to each side of a flying geese square.



6. For the center nine-patch, use the 3 ¾” strips of dark print 2 and the 3 ¾” strip of background fabric. Sew the three strips together lengthwise, with the background fabric in the middle. Press seams towards the dark fabric. Cut the stripes into two 1 7/8 x 4 3/8” rectangles. Sew one 1 7/8” background square to either side of the remaining dark print 1 1 7/8” square. Press seams toward the dark. Line up the strips and sew together as a nine-patch, with the dark print 1 in the center.

7. Sew a flying geese square to either side of the center nine-patch. This is the middle row of your block.

Line up all the rows, and sew together. Press seams however you want. Your block is finished. Hope you’re not cursing me :)



If you want to do the diagonal corners, please email me for separate instructions.

Coming Soon--9 to 5

My newest block instructions will soon be posted, but I thought I'd at least let you have a preview so you can start picking your fabrics. You will need 4 different dark fabrics, one medium fabric, and a background fabric. Be prepared for lots of cutting and scant 1/4" seams. Sorry.
I'm calling the block 9 to 5, not only because of the 5 nine-patch patterns within the block, but also because it was alot more work than I thought it would be. Sorry again :)
You have your choice of corners. Rachel suggested that the diagonal corners could be a running theme throughout all the blocks. It's up to you. Not all of mine have diagonal corners, but I think it's a great idea so I may re-do some of my own blocks...we'll see...

No Apology--No Tardiness!

Rachel did not need to apologize for being late to post a block. It wasn't her turn! She rescued me as I was recovering from an unexpected root canal. My sweet sister-in-law called me, out of the blue, and said she felt like she needed to check on me. I told her the whole 10 day ordeal of a story and she volunteered to post her next block ahead of time.
Bet you wish you had a sister like that!!

Moral of the story--I need to get stuff done ahead of time. Maybe I'll even be able to rescue Rachel one day :)

The Third Block

I apologize for the tardiness of this block. The original plan was to have blocks ready to go in advance, but we haven't gotten them done yet. I confess, I tend to do things when I feel inspired, which is usually pretty close to the deadline.

I'm calling the block Late in Pink. I don't know what the block is really called, feel free to comment if you know. Here's what it looks like:

You will need:

Color A (floral in center): 1 - 4 1/2 inch square for center, 4 - 3 3/8 inch squares (set on point)

Color B (darker fabric in corners): 2 - 4 7/8 inch squares

Contrast (muslin): 4 - 2 7/8 inch squares

Background (light pink floral): 2 - 4 7/8 inch squares, 4 - 2 7/8 inch squares

After you cut all that out, then you can start the block.

1. Draw a diagonal line on the back of the 4 7/8 inch squares in background fabric. Sew 1/4" from line on both sides of the line and cut apart along the line. Press toward the darker fabric. Note: You can skip this and simply cut 4 - 4 1/2" squares of either the background or Color B for the corner squares.

2. Take all the 2 7/8" squares (should be 8, 4 contrast and 4 background) and cut in half on the diagonal.

3. Now sew those triangles onto the 3 3/8" squares. Sew a background to one side and sew a contrast on the opposite side. Press toward the triangle tips, away from the square.

Now if you are using a directional print (like my floral) it gets tricky. You need to lay out the squares like they will be in the final block, remember that they are on point. Then sew on the remaining background and contrast triangles so the contrast triangles will be in the middle. If you don't have a directional print, it doesn't matter how you sew the next two triangles.

Press the seams out toward the triangles.

4. Now you're ready to assemble the block. Layout the nine squares according to the picture and sew them together.

Congratulations! You have finished the third block!