Tuesday, May 25, 2010

9 to 5



I apologize up front for the length and detail of these instructions. I would advise that you cut and paste them into a word document so you can refer to them more easily while sewing. If you read them thoroughly a few times before starting, the block will make more sense—unless you’re a master quilter like Rachel, and then you can just look at the picture and the measurements, and proceed with a perfect block. But we’ll save the discussion over my feelings of inadequacy for another day :) Like I said before, the block is called 9 to 5 because it was a lot of work for me. It sure looked pretty when I designed it! Live and learn.

On this block use a scant ¼” seam.
Fabric requirements:
Dark print 1 (brown paisley): four 2 1/2 x 4 1/2” rectangles; one 1 7/8” square
Dark print 2 (brown floral): one 1 7/8 x 7 3/8” strips; one 1 7/8 x 3 3/4” strip
Dark print 3 (pink floral): one 1 7/8 x 7 3/8” strip
Dark print 4 (red leaf print): two 1 7/8 x 7 3/8” strip
Medium print (tan leaf print): four 2 1/2 x 4 1/2” rectangles; one 1 7/8 x 7 ½” strip
Background (off white) sixteen 1 7/8 x 7 3/8” strips; two 1 7/8” squares; one 1 7/8 x 3 ¾ ” strips; 16 2 1/2” squares (for the background squares, the fabric usage might be easier if you cut four 10 x 2 1/2” strips, and then cut each strip into four 2 1/2” squares)


1. With a pencil, using the 16 2 1/2” squares of background fabric, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the back of each one. If you are using a directional print for the background, you will need to draw your diagonal lines so that 8 of them go one way across the pattern, and 8 of them go the other way.



2. Using the four rectangles from dark print 1 and the 2 1/2” background squares, lay a square over the right edge of the rectangle, with the diagonal line going from the center of the rectangle to the outer corner. Stitch just barely to the outside of the line—toward the outer corner, maybe on the outer edge of the drawn line. Do not stitch down the center of the line. Cut the OUTER corner off. You can save the little leftover triangle for a later project if you wish. (Trust me, this is the easiest way even if it does seem a little wasteful. Been there, done that, wish I hadn’t) Press the seam towards the background fabric. Lay another 2 1/2” background square against the other corner of the same rectangle, making sure that the diagonal line goes from the center of the rectangle to the outer lower corner. The square will lie across the seam of the first square—it’s supposed to. Before sewing, press the fabric upward with your finger to make sure any directional pattern is going the way you want it to. Put the fabric back down and stitch just barely on the outer edge of the diagonal line—toward the outer corner as before. Trim off the outer corner, and press the seam towards the background fabric. You should now have a rectangle in what’s called the flying geese pattern, as shown. Repeat the process with all of the rectangles, both of dark fabric 1, and medium fabric.




3. Sew together one medium print flying geese rectangle with a dark flying geese rectangle, making sure that the dark print is the outermost point. If you are careful to sew exactly across the seam where the two background squares met on each rectangle, you will achieve a perfect point when the flying geese rectangles are sewn together. Press seam towards the dark. You should have four 4 1/2” squares.





4. Using the 1 7/8 x 7 3/8” strips, and with the background fabric in the middle, sew together a dark fabric 2 strip, a background strip, and a dark fabric 4 strip, always pressing seams towards the darker fabric. Repeat using dark fabric 3, background, and dark fabric 4. Repeat again using one background strip, one medium print strip, and another background strip. You should have 3 sets of long striped fabric. Cut those pieces into four 1 7/8” x 4 3/8” rectangles. (My picture only shows three rectangles because I cut mine wrong and had to go back and add in more 1 7/8” squares. My pictures also do not show the cut background/medium strips.)




5. Lay out the checkered pieces carefully, and sew them into 4 little nine-patch squares, making sure that the dark print 1 is in the outermost corner, and dark print 4 shows up in two opposite corners. You may want to square up these little nine-patches to 4 1/2. Use you cutting mat to line up the outer corners, then make sure the four edges are perfectly straight—or as close to straight as possible. (No comments on the skewed edges, please.) For the top and bottom row, sew one small nine-patch to each side of a flying geese square.



6. For the center nine-patch, use the 3 ¾” strips of dark print 2 and the 3 ¾” strip of background fabric. Sew the three strips together lengthwise, with the background fabric in the middle. Press seams towards the dark fabric. Cut the stripes into two 1 7/8 x 4 3/8” rectangles. Sew one 1 7/8” background square to either side of the remaining dark print 1 1 7/8” square. Press seams toward the dark. Line up the strips and sew together as a nine-patch, with the dark print 1 in the center.

7. Sew a flying geese square to either side of the center nine-patch. This is the middle row of your block.

Line up all the rows, and sew together. Press seams however you want. Your block is finished. Hope you’re not cursing me :)



If you want to do the diagonal corners, please email me for separate instructions.

2 comments:

  1. My patches didn't fit together until I trimmed them all to measure 4 1/2". Then they went together like a dream. And I'm impressed that Cynthia got it done in one day. I'm starting my third day, but haven't done all day, every day.

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  2. Okay-- this one just looks intimidating! l Wish me luck.

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